Canaan Mountain to Eagle Crags

We set up a car shuttle with one car at Eagle Crags (Rockville near Zion) and the other at Hilldale (by Colorado City). We took the Smithsonian Butte Backway for the shuttle which is a great drive. We got underway about 9:30 am. Bo knew that Zion Rock was going to be there guiding a canyoneering trip, so we hiked up the steep trail to the head of Water Canyon (which we had to do anyway) to see where they start and asked about the rappels. Travis (who is on the Zion SAR team with Bo) said (I don’t remember exactly) that there are about 8 rappels and 160′ was the longest.

From there we hiked down the drainage until we found a good spot to climb up toward the hoodoos on top. We headed up the slickrock past lots of beautiful hoodoos. Then we got on the soft, sandy 4WD (that is suppose to be closed to 4WDs now) road and headed to the “Notch” and the “Windlass.” Our directions we got from Bo’s climbing friend Mikel told us to follow the dirt road and it would end at Sawmill Springs. There are lots of 4WD roads up there now – a mess of them. We followed a road and it got us way past the spring, so we had to dig out a map and figure out where the spring actually was since the roads were all over now. We got there and were happy to see there was water in the spring. Really gross water though! We set up camp and enjoyed the full moon and the food Bo cooked.

The night was COLD! Our water froze and there was ice on everything. We were warm in our bags though and we had those hot hand things to help us keep warm. We could not make a fire since we were in a wilderness study area.

The next day we started out — after the sun came up and it got warm. I was not leaving my sleeping bag before that!!! Bo was already up and cooked breakfast and hot drinks. (The perfect hiking partner!)

Sunday morning we headed down Sawmill Spring Wash. After hiking up hill all day on Saturday I was looking forward to some downhill. That area was perhaps the most spectacular of the whole hike. I will post some photos later today. We hiked the north edge to the 600′ pour-off. Bo looked from the vantage point but could not see any weakness in the sheer cliff that might be the chute we were looking for. We hiked along the rim, looking at each weakness and for the cairn that Mikel had placed there. We had been told the exit was less than a mile from the vantage point and Bo dropped his pack and went quite a bit farther, still not finding it.

It was getting late and we had to make a choice — stay and look for the chute and maybe camp out (and have SAR called!) Or head back UPHILL to Water Canyon. ~groan~ I was looking forward to the downhill. As much as I hated to head back that’s what we did. Bo decided to try and short cut so the parts that should have now been downhill were UPHILL. We were tired, but it was good exercise so we did not mind that much. We made it to the top of Water Canyon before dark and we saw the full moon peek over the mountain. We began to headlamp down the Water Canyon Trail, but we were dropping faster than the moon was rising so that was our only glimpse of it that night. So at least we did all the non-trail parts in daylight.

Water Canyon

This weekend I returned to the Canaan Mountain hike, but this time I spent more time in the slot canyon section called Water Canyon. My timing was perfect because it had been raining for days and snow was melting so the waterfalls were spectacular and abundant. I was with a group of four men, one old friend Bo, and three new friends. Our first obstacle was getting past the muddy dirt road that led to the trail. After one truck got stuck we decided to park on the paved road and lug our gear down the 1.5 mile dirt/mud road. It was well worth the trek. When I had been here just a couple of week earlier I could walk up parts of the slot without gettting the upper parts of my shoes wet, but that was not the case today.

I was glad I had wore my water tennies and neoprene socks within the first few minutes. The waterfalls were so beautiful we spent a lot more time in Water Canyon than we had planned, along with the trek down the muddy road. Noon was already approaching so we decided we had better head up to the rest of the hike. The trail up to the top is very steep and the deep snow on the trial added to its difficulty. The exercise felt great though and we quickly made it to the top of the mountain.

I was the only one in the group that had been there before so I pointed out the way. They all looked at me as I explained that we just head sort of in “that direction” and that there is not trail for the rest of the hike. The snow was deep and we had changed out of our water shoes along the trail. Our hiking boots were not saturated and my toes were already cold.

Changing shoes and checking our supplies we were prepared to brave the unexpected deep snow. We rushed through this cold part of the trip and hurried back down the trail. The snow had been melting during this time and the waterfalls were now gushing like crazy. It was spectaucular! It took us a long time just to get down the trail because we had to stop and oh and ah at all the waterfalls that had begun to pour since we had come up in the morning. My camera already had over 100 shots on it. We made it back down to the slot and played in the waterfalls and took for picures. Just amazed at how much more the water was now flowing. We debated getting out the canyoneering gear, but it was getting dark so we decided we should come back when it was warmer.

Thanks for the trip guys

Canaan Mountain

This was a wonderful trip with my friend Dean Kurtz and three new friends Randy Cram, Mark Mallory and Mark E. I felt well protected on this adventure since all four men were search and rescue members of the Kane County Team.

The trip is about 12 miles with a 2,000 ft. elevation gain. This is a route that few know of so it’s unlikely you will meet other hikers. The route goes through a wonderful slot canyon section, past a waterfall, over wind swept slick rock, past volcanic rock and white hoodoos, moqui marbles, sand and then climbs to the top of the mountain where white hoodoos are abundant. The route ends at a “V” in the cliffs above the Cannon Ranch where an old windlass is found.

To find the trailhead from Fredonia, Arizona, drive towards Hilldale on AZ389. Turn east on Utah Avenue at the Mark Twain Restaurant. Follow Utah Avenue for a couple of miles until it leaves the residential area and nears the high cliffs. There are two dirt roads to the east, take the second dirt road to the reservoir.

The route begins along a small stream just past the reservoir and climbs steeply along Water Canyon. About forty-five minutes into the hike you will reach a magnificent slot canyon section. This section can be explored or you can continue the trek up the mountain side. The path is well trodden in this area, but narrow so watch your step and don’t take kids.

If you intend to hike past this point I suggest that you have mapped out the route on a topo map. Hiking past this point is only for experienced hikers and good map readers.

At the top of the mountain is a large rock, some trees and the point where you will begin to hike downhill, for a short while, before heading up hill again. Look for the large white hoodoo domes in the distance and head in that direction. The domes sit on a large section of wind swept slick rock that looks like a white Paria. At the far end of the domes is a magnificent view of Zion National Park. You will be able to see the Kolob section, the Eagle Crags as well as the east side of the park.

The next two miles of the hike are lacking significant elevation change, but they are across a deep sandy road that was used when motorized vehicles were allowed on the path. Follow the road to the first large “V” in the mountain. Below the “V” you will be able to see the town below as well as AZ389. To find the windlass continue hiking to the next large “V” in the mountain side. There are more hoodoos in this section and the path is again over a dirt road.

Look for the Canaan Ranch on your map. The “V” is directly above it. You will be able to see the remnants of the windlass as you approach. The windlass is a giant spool for steel cable that was used by the settlers to lower lumber down to the settlement below.

A Windlass:
A machine for raising weights, consisting of a horizontal
cylinder or roller moving on its axis, and turned by a
crank, lever, or similar means, so as to wind up a rope or
chain attached to the weight. In vessels the windlass is
often used instead of the capstan for raising the anchor.
It is usually set upon the forecastle, and is worked by
hand or steam.

Thank you guys!